Ready for Surfing

It was fun scene.

It makes me smile.

Warming up as looking at waves. They are exited to do surfing. They are imagining what kind waves, how surf waves…Ready for Surfing

 

I have never done surfing. But I have seen a lot of films of surfing. It’s a very fascinating sport.

 

I met Gerry Lopez in late 70’s. We talked about his way of surfing was Zen world. He just relaxed and rode on huge waves. It was amazing. And then I met him and shook hands. It was miracle moment. His way of walking was like a feather. Shaking hands was so soft which I have never experienced before and after. Way of his talking was so calm; bring us into a nice quiet world.

 

Surfing is a harmony with nature.

I appreciate cameramen of surfing photos and films. They show us fantastic world.

 

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