Sunset Surfers


“666. Sunset Surfers” Oil painting by Mariko Irie

Here comes!

What a beautiful energy. All of them are exiting as looking for waves and talking about surfing, the sun shining behind them.

Surfing is a fascinating sport.

I tried surfing once long long time ago. When I was getting on a board, a wave took my bikinis. That was it. I knew it was not my thing to play.

But I love to watch surfing movies. First time I watched surfing movies was in Hawaii in 1977. They were shockingly beautiful and exiting. I had never imagined the world before. As surfing, touching inner tube.,,,Oh my mind……

Just recently I watched the movie “Chasing Mavericks (2012)”

The inspirational true story of real life surfing phenomenon Jay Moriarity. When 15 year old Jay discovers that the mythic Mavericks surf break, one of the biggest waves on Earth, is not only real, but exists just miles from his Santa Cruz home, he enlists the help of local legend Frosty Hesson to train him to survive it. As Jay and Frosty embark on their quest to accomplish the impossible, they form a unique friendship that transforms both their lives, and their quest to tame Mavericks becomes about far more than surfing Written by Twentieth Century Fox

He learned skills with philosophy/spirit of surfing for being a good human.

Several great surfers’ performances and beautiful sceneries are breathtaking in this movie as well.

When I saw this during the last trip in San Diego, it recalled the movie and I felt what a cool scene of boy’s passion, isn’t it?









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