It was fun scene.
It makes me smile.
Warming up as looking at waves. They are exited to do surfing. They are imagining what kind waves, how surf waves…
I have never done surfing. But I have seen a lot of films of surfing. It’s a very fascinating sport.
I met Gerry Lopez in late 70’s. We talked about his way of surfing was Zen world. He just relaxed and rode on huge waves. It was amazing. And then I met him and shook hands. It was miracle moment. His way of walking was like a feather. Shaking hands was so soft which I have never experienced before and after. Way of his talking was so calm; bring us into a nice quiet world.
Surfing is a harmony with nature.
I appreciate cameramen of surfing photos and films. They show us fantastic world.
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